About two years ago, Markus Weinberg told me that he and his team were currently working with regional tourism marketing agencies on a beautiful gravel route in East Saxony and that I should take a look at it when I got the chance.
Last year it was officially presented as ‘Rockhead – Craft your Gravel Story’ and now I’ve managed to take a look at this route in person and ride it.
Rockhead – that’s 330km and 4,900 metres of elevation gain from Saxon Switzerland along the German-Czech border over to the Zittau Mountains and then in an arc northwards via Löbau and Schirgiswalde back towards Pirna on the Elbe.
The track is divided into 7 sections, which are between 30 and 65 kilometres long. And all of them, apart from the track from Stolpen to Wehlen, are blessed with plenty of metres in altitude. Anyone who knows the country here knows that it is always steeply uphill and just as steeply downhill again. In terms of the metres in altitude, this is not an issue, but how they come together, these constant short and steep climbs, makes it exhausting and challenging.
Day 1: From tower to tower
I started in Dittersbach on the purple stage. I had found a parking space for my car there and set off in the early but still very cold morning hours of 1 May. However, the sun quickly warmed up and by the time I reached the ferry in Wehlen, I was definitely warm.
The route winds its way up into the mountains on the western side of the Elbe before returning to the river in Bad Schandau. I didn’t take the ferry again here, but cycled directly over the bridge.
The green stage from Bad Schandau to Sohland/Spree was also a tough one with more than 1,000 metres of elevation gain. Along the German-Czech border, the route this time also ran more on gravel and forest paths to the east. It followed old railway lines and mining roads to Sebnitz before the track wound its way up to the Ungerberg.
Viewpoints with towers were an integral part of the Rockhead route. There was always one such tower on the agenda, which could only be reached after climbing and steep ramps.
But the view (if there was one) or the tower itself were often worth it. And I was usually all alone at the top.
From Sohland, the route took me deep into the east of Saxony. The track ran through a very beautiful natural landscape. And I was really impressed by the good roads, the beautiful villages and small towns. The people here must be doing really well, at least if you look at the many new houses, lots of cars, the well-developed infrastructure and lovingly restored monuments and homes.
I took a break in Großschönau and then cycled in the evening hours to what was probably the most challenging mountain on the entire route: the Hochwald and the Hochwaldbaude. For time reasons, I left the actual route here for a short time in order to reach the Hochwald with more metres in altitude, but faster. I wanted to reach Zittau before nightfall.
And the ascent to Hochwald was steep. Very steep. I pushed for a kilometre and was then rewarded with standing completely alone at the top of the hut and looking out over the countryside. On the rapid but short descent, I made my brake discs glow. Also because I really wanted to stop at the majestic Kelchsteine. They were very impressive and had something magical about them in the twilight.
And also worth mentioning, as it is very impressive: the castle in Oybin, which rises on a huge sandstone rock in the middle of the valley. There were only ruins at the top, but they give an idea of its former power. In the last light of day, I rolled into the campsite in Zittau.
That was the end of the first day at Rockhead. It was 206 km and 3,500 metres in altitude. The maximum gradient was 22.3% and that was definitely at Hochwald. And I shifted gears 750 times that day (1x – rear only). That shows how many steep climbs and descents there were.
Day 2: Rapeseed fields and Czorneboh
After a mild night, I set off again at dawn. After a quick breakfast, the Löbauer Berg was already waiting. Another one of those viewpoints with a tower.
It’s a special one, though, because it’s made entirely of iron and really beautiful to look at. Once again, I was on my own. Before you climb the mountain, you pass through the town of Herrnhut, which you should know for its stars. Driving through it reminded me of a trip I made here back in GDR times.
After the Löbauer Berg is before the Czorneboh. This mountain is 557 metres high and you basically only ride uphill from Löbau before conquering the last few metres on short, steep ramps to – of course – the observation tower.
I arrived relatively early here too, but met other bikepackers for the first time, who were sitting at the top and enjoying the morning sun.
Like the green stage, the blue stage has a lot of metres in altitude. However, these were quickly overcome, especially as the many half-timbered houses here provided plenty of variety.
In fact, there are many of these traditional and historic houses in Upper Lusatia. It’s not for nothing that the Rockhead Track also crosses the German Half-Timbered Road again and again.
A little later I reach the Spree, cycle through endless meadows and rapeseed fields, and suddenly Stolpen Castle rises up on the horizon. From here it was only another 15km before I reached the car park of my car again late in the afternoon at 30 degrees.
And here are some more statistics: 117 km and 1,830 metres in altitude on this half day. The maximum gradient was 23.3%, which was probably at Czorneboh. And I shifted gears 512 times that day (1x – rear only). And that was only half a day, if you take into account the 730 gear changes on day 1, it also shows how much it went up and down on the second day.
Rockhead rocks!
I was really looking forward to the Rockhead Track and it didn’t disappoint. Of course, it’s not a pure gravel route and also runs along tarmac roads from time to time. But these are extremely good. But I didn’t think that was a bad thing, as it made some of the climbs a little more bearable.
So if you’re expecting an Orbit360-like challenge with lots of gravel, I have to disappoint you. But the Rockhead is not to be underestimated in terms of exertion. And you can also ride it in one day.
Rockhead does a very good job of giving you a great impression of this area at the eastern end of our country. I was impressed by the rich nature, the beautiful forests and the old towns and villages. The track delivers and of course you mustn’t forget that the Rockhead was built precisely for this purpose: to get to know the country and its people. The one or other detour, especially within towns and villages, could be taken out. But that’s a matter of taste.
The technical demands on the track are very low. There are hardly any challenges. But a gravel bike makes sense, a mountain bike would be too much of a good thing. In essence, you can also ride it on a trekking bike if you are prepared to put up with the extra weight.
So if you’re reasonably fit (otherwise it’s just exhausting), you should take a look at the Rockhead. You don’t have to ride the whole thing and can pick and choose a stage. In my opinion, around 100 kilometres a day is ideal for a leisurely, sporty ride through the countryside.
For me, the Rockhead was an important building block in my training plan and in preparation for my summer. I used it to check my current fitness and make a few adjustments. I deliberately held back and rode slower than usual. I also did a 30-minute power nap on the first day because I wanted to see what effect it had on my body (good). I also adjusted my break and supply strategy and focussed more on relaxation (which is a good thing).
I also experimented with my equipment and took my Big Agnes Fly Creek tent with me in trail mode, for example: just the outer tent and ground sheet. But I’m not sure whether I’ll do that again. It was ok in itself, it was supposed to be an alternative to the bivy sack, but I always slipped around on the ground sheet at night with my mat and then always lay against the tent wall. This meant that my sleeping bag got wet, as the tent wall naturally had condensation. I prefer to travel with an inner tent and accept the extra weight of the tent.
Speaking of accommodation: there are relatively many huts along the route, but you will find plenty of guesthouses, campsites and holiday lodgings along the way. So if you like, you don’t need to be travelling with full equipment, but can work with light luggage and fixed accommodation.
