Fifty – The ‘half a century overnighter’

Fuffzig – Der „ein halbes Jahrhundert Overnighter“ // Fifty - The ‘half a century overnighter’ // Picture: Gunnar Dethlefsen
Fuffzig – Der „ein halbes Jahrhundert Overnighter“ // Fifty - The ‘half a century overnighter’ // Picture: Gunnar Dethlefsen

A few days ago was my birthday and I turned 50. And normally I’m someone who can’t be surprised by almost anything. As I don’t celebrate my birthdays anyway, I wasn’t expecting a few friends to secretly get together and give me an unforgettable birthday Overnighter present.

Picture: Gunnar Dethlefsen

At the Gravity Festival, I had loosely agreed with Stephan to go cycling together for a weekend when the opportunity arose. In autumn, it became clear that we wanted to take a weekend in January for this. Why not: if the weather is right, then that’s a good time of year to go on a tour. And if the weather is really bad, you can also book a fixed accommodation where you can spend the night. So it doesn’t always have to be a bivouac.

Stephan wanted to organise a track and a few days beforehand we agreed to meet in Lauenburg on the Elbe. He had to arrive beforehand, so we planned to meet between 1 and 2 pm. That worked out well for me, as it meant I could cycle from Hamburg to the Elbe in comfort.

Stephan met me 4 km before Lauenburg and together we rolled into the supermarket car park where his car was parked. While I got something from the bakery, he got his bike ready. Of course, this took longer again, which is why I sat down for a coffee at the bakery. And suddenly Nils and Gunnar were standing in front of me. You know when you meet people you know, but you weren’t expecting to see them and they don’t fit in with your surroundings? After my initial astonishment, I was delighted and even more so when I realised that Stephan had thought up a very special birthday surprise and had invited the two of them along.

Picture: Nils Thomsen

What a surprise! I hadn’t expected it at all! And so the four of us set off. Our destination was a barbecue site behind Bispingen, where you could make a fire and which Stephan had reserved for us. And you can also bivouac there – at least at this time of year and not officially.

Picture: Gunnar Dethlefsen

It was just under 70 kilometres to get there. Thanks at this point to Gunnar, who planned the tracks. Of course, we were a little late at 2 p.m., but riding in the dark in winter is simply part of the experience. And above all, it’s magical to be out in a dark forest with just the lights on your bike.

The day was already very cold and ice was forming on our clothes, bags and bikes. However, we were compensated for this by the magnificent landscape that lay before us, partly hidden in thick fog.

We arrived in Bispingen shortly before 8 p.m. and got some firewood from the supermarket before fortifying ourselves in a pizzeria. Then we cycled the last few kilometres to our overnight stop.

Without a fire, it’s not really possible to chat and get together at this time of year. It’s just far too cold. That’s why we already tried out in December how to take firewood with us and find places where a fire is allowed. Barbecue areas, for example, are well suited. And you can usually bivouac there for a few hours.

This time, however, it was a luxury option, as the barbecue site in Bispingen is very large and well maintained.

By now it was getting really cold and the sky was clearing. We sat around the fire under a perfect starry sky, chatting and occasionally taking a sip from Gunnar’s hip flask.

There was a covered barbecue house round the corner, which we quickly converted into a place to sleep. Shortly before midnight, we tucked ourselves into our sleeping bags and quickly fell into a deep sleep. It was then that we realised how exhausting it was to be outside and cycle in these temperatures.

The morning literally bit into our noses, as it was minus 9 degrees. We quickly packed up and had breakfast in a nearby bakery. That’s one of the best things about such trips, when you can stop for a fresh coffee in the morning and warm up again.

Interestingly, we all realised that our sat navs either couldn’t be charged or lost their battery very quickly due to the cold. But in the warm bakery we were fine.

Our plan was to cycle through the Lüneburg Heath to Hamburg. And anyone who knows the Lüneburg Heath knows that it really is beautiful. It’s just that it’s often overcrowded in summer and cycling there isn’t really much fun.

Our route ran via Totengrund to Wilseder Berg. The heath was deserted and frozen. The trees were white and the landscape was covered in ice crystals.

And the sun came out and bathed the land in a fantastic light. The view over the Totengrund was particularly impressive. Fascinated, we rode through the winter wonderland and enjoyed the warming sun.

We left the heath in Buchholz in der Nordheide and said goodbye to Stephan, who wanted to take a different route back to Lauenburg. Gunnar, Nils and I continued towards the Elbe, through the Black Mountains. Of course, we had to take one or two steep trails with us and so it got quite strenuous again. But without it, the flavour is missing.

A little later, we cycled through Hamburg harbour and the old Elbe tunnel. Then we said goodbye and I cycled the last few kilometres home with a big grin on my face. That was a great present for a great 50th birthday! And the year has only just begun…

Thanks again Stephan, Nils and Gunnar!

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